I have written about removing sealers but have not as yet written about the proper application of the New VOC Approved Sealers.


As anyone in this business knows already we are having serious issues with blushing of clear sealers on Stamped Concrete for many reasons. The main reasons are over-sealing and applying incompatible sealers over each other.


If you have been following this blog I have tried to keep all those interested in our progress in dealing with this issue. You know that we have been diligent in trying to find the answer to this problem.


I am happy to say that we finally have found a solution and on both fronts. Applying sealer when warranted in the past was a no brainer. You identified that a resealing was needed and either had a professional provide the service or chose to do it yourself.  In either case it meant no more than opening a can of sealer and either rolling on a new coat or spraying on a coat.


It didn’t seem to matter how many times you resealed provide you followed the instructions but along came the new EPA Regulations commonly known as VOC Regulations. This was the attempt to prevent Volatile Organic Compounds from polluting the atmosphere. The EPA as I understand it reached out to the Sealer Community to ask whether changing the formulation of the sealers being used at the time would create any issues. No one seemed to think that it would and therefore they initiated the change thinking that it would not be an issue. Unfortunately it is an issue based on what we in the industry are experiencing related to blushing or whitening of sealer.


One of the problems is that the Old Sealers and New VOC Approved sealers are not compatible and therefore when applying the new sealer over the old that re-emulsifies the old sealer and when it commingles with the new sealer whitening and or blushing occurs due to the chemical compositions being incompatible and moisture being blocked from evaporating.


These problems seen to have started about 2005 and has become worse particularly during resealing. It seems that new jobs using thin coats of VOC Approved sealers work fine on new work but on older work is where the problems continually occur.


We have been working on a solution to this and can report that our removal of the older sealer and application of a New VOC Approved Sealer has produced great results. The trick is getting off the old sealer. If you hire the right sandblasting professional who blasts using water with the proper medium that you can be successful and if done correctly will solve your sealing problem for good. It is imperative that the person be used since it must be done safely and efficiently.


I have been working at finding a solution for this for about 2 years now and trust me although there are many strippers on the market to do the same thing there are many downsides to using them, the main one being not properly rinsing prior to resealing that will only reduce your chances of a successful solution but waste precious time and expense doing it. I presently have a 55 gallon drum that cost me $2,000 sitting in my warehouse that I have to pay to dispose of.


The removal old sealers effectively can only be done quickly and efficiently by a professional. These people not only use ENVIORNMENTALLY SAFE products to remove sealers but can get it done both quickly and inexpensively. In general they can remove about 2000 square feet a day at a cost from about .65-$1.00 per square foot. Allot cheaper and faster than I have been able to do it for and be comfortable that all the sealer has been removed so that the approved sealer can be applied and reapplied in the future without any issue.


If you have a newer project that you are experiencing these whitening problems it might be as simple as re- emulsifying your sealer using Xylene to allow moisture to escape that might be trapped under the sealer. If the problem is caused by using to many coats of sealer then at that point you might have to remove what has been improperly applied and start with new sealer.


Remember that thin multiple coats works best and do not opt for trying for a shiny look since to many coats are needed to achieve this look and might destroy the breathability of the sealer and therefore lock in moisture coming from below and  create blushing.




Stamped Concrete installer please try to put plastic down prior to pouring, this dramatically reduces the chance of having these problems whether a job is new or resealed since it acts as a barrier from moisture getting to the surface from below.


If anyone reading this blog has any questions whether you are a Homeowner or Contractor I stand ready to help and can be reached by email at


Thanks for visiting Theconcreteprofessor

Published by the concrete professor

Concrete repairs by The Concrete Professor are for those looking to repair their existing Stamped or Colored concrete to look new again. We have multiple ways to correct problems that others have told you can't be done. I have been in the Decorative concrete business for over 35 years and recently realize that my extensive information about proper repairing of existing concrete is immense. Call today to speak to me where ever you are in this country or outside of the US. I will direct you to the proper person and approach. Ted Mechnick 732-915-6391

Join the Conversation


  1. Concrete Professor, I can’t believe I found this blog. It’s as if I had written it myself. I agree and have said wholeheartedly that the EPA DID NOT do their homework regarding the effects of formula changes to sealers. It not only gives us re-sealing contractors fits but the homeowner fits as well. There is no one single and simple solution to the problems created by the changes in environmental laws. Although you nailed it spot on with your assessment that stripping by means of sand blasting or in my case soda blasting and then re-sealing is best suited for blushing, whitening, etc. I will look into coal slag, I haven’t come across that yet. The soda medium although safe tends to leave white residue especially around mulched areas that will eventually go away. I have adapted to the problems and have let my customers become aware of why the issues exist and at times restored color antiquing liquid release agents to mask some of the whiting and with no complaints! NONE! That’s an actual surprise to me. I would like to attend the seminar on Dec. 1 and 2. I’ll leave my info below and would love to pick the brains further from you and anyone else in this field to help our cause and make our jobs easier and less costlier. Thanks for the great articles and your passion in this serious issue.

  2. I’m looking for a professional to strip the multipal coats of sealer on my stamped patio. Anyone knowing of relyable contractors in Northeast Ohio?

    1. Did you find anyone? I am also in NE Ohio and looking for a contractor,

  3. What would you use to remove sealer from stoef concrete? It has a white residue on it now. Thanks

    1. Looking for a contractor in the Denver area who can strip the sealer from my stamped concrete patio, 800s/f

      1. Don,
        Sorry for the late reply but although I have been writing articles on wordpress for years I have never been able to master how to monitor this site or promote it more. Not a techy just a 67 year old guy who worked his ass off to master his craft and hopefully help people.
        Go the to find a contractor in your area. Great resource.
        Ted Mechnick

  4. What would happen long term if a Stampcrete sidewalk is not sealed at all? We are a multi-unit property owner with many elderly residents and have tested a slab of stampcrete concrete with various sealers vs. no sealer and even when properly pitched, the sample a) take hours to dry after a rain, b) is more slippery with sealer than without sealer.

    1. Sealing with slip resistant additive like rhino grip or shark grip by Sherwin Williams is great for slip resistance. Not sealing could cause fading. Resealing with to mug sealer can cause what’s called blushing a whitening of sealer. I can be reached at 732-915-6391 if you want further assistance.
      Ted Mechnick

      1. Thanks! You’ve helped me with part “b”. We’ve noticed that the sealed portion takes hours to dry after a rain. This could be a problem in the winter since the surface is more apt to freeze and one can slip. Your thoughts.

  5. Just found your blog and I’m hoping you can help. The coping around our pool is stamped concrete and after switching to a newer sealer last year we are noticing the symptom that you describe here. Because of the proximity to the pool I’m not sure sand blasting is a good option. I’ve also read about using muriatic acid (?) but again…the proximity to the pool. Just about anything we use is bound to get in. Also, once the sealer is stripped will we need t restain the concrete before applying new sealer? thanks.

    1. Seems you have gotten allot of bad information. Scary how far off the solution we can get. Pool, driveway etc. We have dealt with removal of sealer on all. Never an issue. I can be reached at 732.915.6391 TO EXPLAIN AT LENGTH TO RELIEVE YOUR CONCERNS

  6. What if you don’t know what sealer was used in the past? This is a stamped concrete patio around a pool. Only 2 years old but don’t know what kind of sealer a previous owner used?

  7. Found this website dealing with removing old , dull looking sealer from a stamped concrete patio floor. Most inquiries were from 2013 & 2014. There was a phone number given,732-915-6391, for further comments. Is this number still good and do you still accept questions about this topic? My name is Rich, and can be reached at Thanks.

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